Valuable insights on how to prolong the lifespan of your wooden furniture

Valuable insights on how to prolong the lifespan of your wooden furniture

Since the dawn of time, various types of wood – oak, maple, willow, lime, mahogany and olive – have been used to create stylish and functional pieces of furniture. The application of wood is increasing in modern designs due to its strength and durability, not to mention its straightforward processing that allows for unique and innovative solutions. Wood materials can be jointed, attached with nails or screws or glued. As far as the psychological influences of wood are concerned, it gives people pleasure and happiness, as well as relaxing them mentally and emotionally.

If treated with adequate care, wooden furniture can last beautifully for years, but the life expectancy comes down to quality. In other words, oak, teak and mahogany can easily last half a century or more. More lightweight woods tend to show wear and tear sooner. In what follows below, we’ll highlight several ways that you can maintain, protect and treat your wooden furniture.

To keep the wood in its best condition, nourish it with oil

Wooden furniture can no doubt enhance the splendour of your home, but you must dedicate sufficient time to its maintenance to preserve the beauty, durability and value of the furnishings. With time, dust settles on the surfaces, taking the shine off and compromising the visual appeal. Remove dust and debris that can scratch the furniture. Equally important is to keep the wooden furniture away from direct sunlight to preserve its condition and colour. Curtains act as a barrier, preventing harsh UV rays from entering the living space. And lastly, use coasters to prevent water rings.

When the pieces of furniture arrive at your home, help them adjust to the new environment by applying wood oil generously. The special composition of the oil ensures it’s friendly to the environment, meaning it’s a non-hazardous substance; it isn’t recommended to use olive oil because it can go rancid on the wood. Apply oil three times during the first 72 hours, and use a soft, clean cloth when wiping away the residue. Oil can be applied to all interior wood surfaces such as worktops, tabletops, stairs, walls, floors and so forth. Following application, the surface will appear a bit glossy, but it should disappear after cleaning two or three times.

Always use coasters, place mats and tablecloths

As mentioned earlier, it’s a good idea to use coasters because they help prevent water rings and stains from forming on your wooden furniture, which are typically the result of spills and accidents. As you may already know, wood is a porous material, which means that exposure to moisture leads it to rot, soften and fall apart. Soda stains oxidize and cause long-term damage, besides the fact that they have a sweet scent that attracts bugs. Place mats are necessary because they protect the furniture from serve ware. Crockery and cutlery can scratch and dent the wood. Also, ensure serving dishes and mugs don’t come into direct contact with the wooden furniture.

A tablecloth protects against heat damage, smudges and fingerprints and makes people appreciate the dining experience more. If the tablecloth is too big, it will look sloppy, but if it’s too small, it will expose the table legs and make the entire setting look cheap. The simplest way to secure a tablecloth is to use clips. These supplies can be easily obtained and used as a quick and efficient way to keep the tablecloth in place. Using the wrong products when cleaning wood furniture can cause drying, lightening or scratching of the surface, which is why you should avoid using anything abrasive.

Protect the flooring underneath the wooden furniture

Heavy pieces of furniture can cause dents when pressed into the floor. Flooring is incredibly susceptible to scratching if furniture pads aren’t used, which typically come in the shape of a blanket and look much like a thick quilt. When moving furniture around, ensure no debris or dirt is caught underneath, as it can cause major scratches. Above all, incorporate rugs and carpets into your home to add extra texture and style whilst protecting the flooring from damage. Textile floor covering should be placed underneath the dining table and chairs to add functional value and elevate your space.

Continue to treat the surfaces when necessary

With time, wooden surfaces become dull and lose their natural shine, which can be the result of exposure to sunlight, dirt, dust and other factors. You can re-apply oil to maintain the furniture’s appearance; every four to six months or if you notice a greyish hue developing on the surface. There’s nothing wrong with applying new varnish over an old one, provided it’s in good condition; you’ll enjoy long-lasting colour and protection. Nevertheless, if the wood oil shows signs of failure and the furniture pieces need restoration, it’s best to strip the old varnish to guarantee you have a better and more accurate colour.

Rubio Monocoat has launched a great many wood finishing products until now, it comes as no surprise to find out they’re leaders in the hard wax oil wood finish industry. The company makes plant-based wood oil that is zero-VOC and is used as a finishing layer for protecting interior and exterior surfaces. Please visit https://rubiomonocoat.co.uk/ if you wish to find out more. The Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C can always be mixed with Rubio Monocoat Pre-Aging, which creates the look of reactive stains but without drawbacks, such as not being able to replace or reproduce matching pieces in the future.

Final thoughts

Wooden furniture, especially new, quality pieces, can be a major investment, so it’s vital to properly care for it. Dust several times a week to maintain a clean surface, use a humidifier or a dehumidifier to prevent the wood from warping or drying out, and cover the bottom of accessories to prevent scratches. Attention must be paid to the fact that, even with the best of care, furnishings are subject to accidents, and most blemishes that occur can be repaired without great expense. Oils create a hard, protective finish that’s resistant to wear and tear, but that resistance doesn’t mean the wooden furniture is immune to chemical cleaners and solvents.

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How to build a display case for your models

How to build a display case for your models

Building a display case for your models is a great way to show them off and protect them from damage and dust. In this post, we’ll show you how to build one using materials that are easy to find and affordable. Let’s get started!

First and foremost, you need to collect the materials needed. For this project, you’ll need:

  • A piece of glass or Plexiglas
  • A wooden box (discard the lid)
  • Silicone caulk
  • Glue (we used Gorilla glue)
  • Clamps

A lot of these items can be found at local DIY stores. Though you can get your cut to size acrylic sheet at Simply Plastics.

Now that you’ve gathered all of your materials, it’s time to begin. The first thing you need to do is cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit the box. Once you’ve done that, use the silicone caulk to glue the glass to the frame. Make sure that you apply a generous amount of caulk around the edges so that it seals well. Then, use the clamps to hold everything in place while the glue dries. You’ll also need to secure your model(s) to the base of the box as you’ll no longer be able to access it.

Once the glue has dried, you can remove the clamps and admire your handiwork! And that’s it! You now have a beautiful display case for your model.

What are the benefits of a display case for models?

There are several benefits to displaying models in a display case. First, it protects the model from dust and other airborne contaminants that can damage it over time. It also makes the model more visible so that others can enjoy it and can help prevent theft or vandalism.

If you’re considering building a display case for your models, there are a few things you should keep in mind. You’ll need to choose a material that’s durable and transparent. Plexiglass or acrylic is a good choice because it’s strong and clear. Then you will need to determine the size of the case based on the model size. You will also need to decide on a method of construction and a finish to compliment the model.

What type of wood should I use to build a display case?

There are a few different types of wood that can be used to build a display case, but the most common and sturdy type is plywood. You’ll want to use thicker plywood for the sides and bottom of the case, and thinner plywood for the top and shelves. If you plan on painting or staining the display case, make sure to use a type of plywood that’s compatible with your chosen finish.

How do I measure my display case?

To get started, you’ll need to measure the length, width and height of your models. Add about a ½-inch to each measurement to allow for clearance. Once you have these measurements, you can begin planning the layout of your display case.

If you’re including shelves, be sure to leave enough space between each shelf for your models. You’ll also want to leave some clearance at the top and bottom of the display case so that your models can be seen from all sides.

Building a display case isn’t as difficult as it may seem. With a little planning and some basic woodworking skills, you can create a beautiful display case that will protect your models for years to come.

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6 common problems to look out for with wood flooring

6 common problems to look out for with wood flooringcredit

Wood flooring is a lovely choice to make a part of your home. It not only looks really good, but when installed right, it can last for a long time. There are some key problems you need to look out for to maintain your wood flooring properly. With the necessary tools and techniques, you’ll be able to have these issues resolved. Here are some common problems you need to look out for with wood flooring.

Cupped wooden flooring

1. Cupping

If the bottom of a board becomes wetter than the top, the edges of the board cup. Wide plank floors tend to be the most prone to cupping, but it can also happen to strip flooring. The cause of cupping is usually when the flooring has been installed over a wet basement or crawlspace. The solution to slowing moisture migration is having a vapour retarder installed between the floorboards and the sub-floor.

In some cases, after the moisture issues are resolved, the cupped floors will end up lying flat again. In other cases, the floor may be permanently deformed. The floor will have to be sanded after the moisture content of the bottom and top of the board is within 1%. You can check the bottoms of the boards by placing a moisture meter through the sub-floor.

Gaps in wooden floor boards

2. Abnormal gaps

Gaps that are big and irregular can take away from the look of your wood flooring. This type of flooring can be more prone to this problem. These gaps tend to be more evident during drier times. One cause of abnormal gaps is flooring that’s too wet when installed. Another cause is installing flooring in areas that are excessively dry, such as when wooden floors are installed on heating ducts, homes heated with wood stoves or areas that receive a lot of direct sunlight.

The best time to have gaps in your floors repaired is during the most humid time of the year when they hold tight to one another. Repairing them when the wooden floor gaps are widest might lead to a floor that buckles when it expands. When repairing the floors, never use wood filler. Instead, glue slithers of wood to the edge of the floorboards. Be sure to apply the glue on only one side of the slither to avoid gluing any boards together.

Peeling paint on wooden floorboardscredit

3. Peeling floor finishes

A wood floor finish can peel if the floor is improperly prepped or contaminated when the finish is applied. Any chemicals or dirt embedded in the finish or on top of the floor will cause the coats of a finish to flake. Other times, excessive sanding with high-grit paper causes the surface to be too smooth for the finish to adhere. Perhaps the most common cause of peeling is stain residue that’s not cleaned before the finish is applied. You can prevent any build-up of stain residue by removing excess stain no later than three minutes after it’s been applied.

The floor should dry thoroughly before any finish is applied. Don’t make the mistake of letting stain sit or applying multiple coats of stain to darken the wood. One of the best ways to fix a peeling floor is sanding it down to bare wood and restarting the process of applying the finish. Having the floor abraded and getting a new topcoat applied probably won’t fix the problem. If resanding isn’t done, furniture polishes and waxes used to clean wood floors will seep in the pores of the finish and potentially prevent the finish from successfully bonding.

Wet wooden floor boards

4. Buckling

When boards can’t expand, they end up buckling. A wood floor can buckle because of a flood, a damp basement, or if it was too dry when the floor was installed. Additionally, improper fastening aggravates the condition. Sometimes, buckled floors can be refastened, while other times, they have to be removed. If the grooves and tongues are torn apart, or the boards have been cracked, they have to be replaced. The moisture issues in the home have to be fixed, and the moisture content of the sub-floor and floorboards needs to be the appropriate level before the buckled floors can be repaired.

Stained wooden floor

5. Stains

When a floor finish builds up with stain, it can typically be removed with a wood floor cleaner. If the stain is within the actual finish, it has to be sanded out. If a floorboard has been deeply stained, it’s best to have it replaced. In particular, pet urine can go deep into the wood fibres and be very difficult to remove. Two-part wood bleach can sometimes remove stains, though it does have disadvantages. Bleach can break down the wood fibres, causing the wood to be more susceptible to denting. If you use wood bleach, make sure to apply it to the entire floor, so the floor can remain consistent in sheen and colour. Once dry, sand and refinish the wood.

Fractured wooden floor

6. Fractures

Factory-finished floors tend to have more cracks than other types of flooring. Flooring nailers damage the finish on the boards. More manufacturers are making an adapter for their nailers to keep the force of the nailer from concentrating on the floorboard’s surface. Ideally, boards with badly damaged edges should be replaced. Cracks can be common on the face of regular and factory-finished floorboards. It happens because different wood types tend to crack more than others.

A factory-finished board can be fixed through using a manufacturer repair kit, which has a coloured marker, a bottle of finish and wood filler. If you’re unable to get a kit, the next best option is to either fill the crack with wood filler and apply finish over the entire floor to keep the colours matching, or replace the board.

Being aware of common wood flooring problems can keep you prepared with the tools you need to maintain your floors. Be sure to fix any problems that you notice with your wooden floors as soon as possible to keep it preserved. You can learn more about hardwood floors at this link: HomesPure.com.

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You may approach the bench

Un-restored vintage work bench | H is for Home

In last Monday’s Get their Look post we featured a very nice relaxed kitchen which combined open shelving and contemporary fixtures & fittings with one-off vintage pieces. One such item was a lovely rustic work bench that took a prominent position in the space. As luck had it, we came across this old woodworking bench at auction the following day. With the potential that these items possess still firmly in our mind, we obviously couldn’t resist putting in a bid.

Vintage unrestored work bench showing the side attached vice

We already have a large work bench in our own kitchen, but you can never have too many! We’re confident that this one will look amazing after a bit of TLC. First off, it needs a good wash to remove the grime. Fortunately, there’s no horrible layers of grease, oil or tar – so that should be a very straightforward task with a bit of diluted wood wash. Then, we’ll let it dry thoroughly, make a couple of tiny repairs, then finally wax and polish. We can see that the wood has a lovely colour and grain beneath the dust and grime.

Vintage unrestored work bench showing the tool storage holes

The finished piece will be perfect for the kitchen or garden room. The holes along one edge are ideal for knives, wooden spoons or other kitchen utensils… trowels and dibbers if it ends up with a more horticultural re-purposing. There’s plenty of space underneath for boxes, baskets or sacks too. This one doesn’t have slats sitting atop the cross stretchers. We’ll probably leave as is, but they could easily be added if desired.

Here are some more examples of these old work benches given new leases of life!

Vintage workbench in a carpenter's studiocredit

Vintage wooden work bench upcycled as a sink islandcredit

Vintage wooden work bench upcycled into a kitchen islandcredit

Vintage wooden work bench repurposed into a dining tablecredit