• Wash the figs gently and remove the stalks. Cut them into small dice. There’s no need to peel them; the skins soften during cooking and add lovely colour and texture to the jam.
• Put the chopped figs into a large bowl and add 400g of the sugar. Toss everything together, cover the bowl with cling film, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Cooking the jam

• Transfer the figs and sugar to a large stainless-steel or enamelled saucepan. Choose a pan that isn’t more than twice the volume of the fruit mixture; a smaller pan helps the jam cook evenly.
• Place the pan over a medium heat and bring the figs to the boil, stirring regularly with a heatproof spatula. Once boiling, scrape the mixture back into the bowl and cover it again with cling film.
• Allow it to cool, then refrigerate overnight. This resting time helps the sugar draw out the figs’ juices and gives the fruit a deeper, more developed flavour.
• The following day, scrape the fig mixture back into the saucepan. Have a skimmer and a bowl of water ready, and place a small plate in the refrigerator to chill.
• Bring the fruit back to the boil over a medium heat, stirring often. Once boiling, add the remaining 400g sugar, along with the lemon juice and balsamic vinegar.
• Continue boiling for 15–20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the jam has thickened but is still soft and spreadable. If any foam rises to the surface, skim it off, dipping the skimmer into the bowl of water to clean it as you go.

Testing the jam

• To check whether the jam is ready, remove the chilled plate from the refrigerator and place a spoonful of jam on it. Leave it for about 20 seconds, then tilt the plate.
• The jam should move only slightly and slowly. If it runs quickly, return the pan to the heat and boil the jam for another minute or two before testing again.
• Transfer the hot jam to sterilised jars, screwing on the lids tightly while still quite hot