Designer Desire: Kordes & Lichtenfels

Montage of Kordes & Lichtenfels jewellery

I was trawling through either Pinterest or Instagram recently (I can’t remember which) and came across some very beautiful, Scandi-looking, brutalist jewellery. It turns out that it was made by a company called Kordes & Lichtenfels. Despite finding extensive examples of their designs online (not all mid-century modernist in design as the ones we’ve chosen to highlight above), there’s sketchy information available about the company or its jewellery designers.

Founded in Germany in 1884 and based in the famed jewellery-making centre of Pforzheim, Kordes & Lichtenfels were manufacturers of deluxe jewellery fashioned from gold, silver and rolled gold with semi-precious stones. In the 1970s, the company evolved into Merz Export GmbH and, from 2017, another company Andreas Daub took over the production.

There are lots of pieces of Kordes & Lichtenfels jewellery available for sale on eBay and Etsy.

Image credits:
Pinterest | Poshmark

Auction alert: Georgian mourning jewellery

GEORGE II GOLD & BLACK ENAMEL MOURNING RING

Today, we’re featuring a Jewellery, 19th/20th Century & Ceramics sale for our Auction Alert series. It takes place on  14th October 2021, 10am, at Lawrences Salerooms in Crewkerne, Somerset.

We’ve chosen to highlight a particular – need we say – niche cross-section of the lots on offer; Georgian mourning jewellery. We’ve also included another non-mourning Georgian jewellery item, just because it’s so beautiful; a green paste pendant with one other.

The Georgian era is a time-frame in British history beginning in 1714 until c. 1830-37. It is so named after the successive Hanoverian Kings George I, George II, George III and George IV. The definition of the Georgian era is often extended to include the relatively short reign of William IV which ended with his death in 1837. It also encompasses the Regency period which was when George IV was Prince of Wales during the illness of his father George III.

Georgian mourning jewellery was highly personal and sentimental. Some would consider it morbid and macabre. We have to remember, death and its impact pervaded much of Georgian, and later, Victorian life; It was commemorated in fashion, art and here, jewellery.

Memento mori were full of symbolism. The colours used were often black & white; with materials such as black enamel and jet, pearls and ivory (the former represented tears). There were depictions of sculls, bones and images of (mainly women) mourning the death of a loved one. Many examples contained woven hair of the dearly departed. Mourning jewellery included lockets, pendants, rings and brooches.

A premium of 30% (25% + VAT) will be charged on top of the hammer price on all lots. Any lots purchased online with the-saleroom.com will be subject to an additional 5.94% (4.95% plus VAT) which is applied by the saleroom.com. Any lots purchased online with easyliveAuction.com will be subject to an additional 3.6% (3% plus VAT) or you can opt to pay a flat fee per sale of £3.00 (inc VAT)  per sale which is applied by easyliveAuction.

For a packing fee plus the cost of postage and insurance, and when time permits, we are able to post small items such as jewellery, small items of silver, individual books, smaller ceramics, coins, medals, etc.

GEORGE III GOLD & PEARL SET SWIVEL MEMORIAL RING
Lot 1233: A GEORGE III GOLD AND PEARL SET SWIVEL MEMORIAL RING
Set to one side with a locket compartment containing hair within a surround of half pearls, with a black enamel plague to the other side, inscribed Mark Hodgson, Esq died 12 July 1810 aged 52, the bifurcated shoulders with gold engraved decoration. Size M
Estimate: £200-£400

GEORGE II AMETHYST SET MOURNING RING

Lot 1263: A GEORGE II AMETHYST SET MOURNING RING
The amethyst set in gold closed back setting, with black enamel decoration, with inscription for E: L’dy Arundell OB 1751. Size K
Estimate: £250-£300

GEORGE II GOLD & BLACK ENAMEL MOURNING RING

Lot 1266: A GEORGE II GOLD AND BLACK ENAMEL MOURNING RING
Formed with a gold skull on black enamel and inscribed M. Pyrke OB 22 Dec 1738 AE 76. Size Q
Estimate: £500-£600

GEORGE III GOLD & PEARL SET MOURNING RING

Lot 1270: A GEORGE III GOLD AND PEARL SET MOURNING RING
The navette-shaped centre section containing hair, set within an enamel border with inscription for Gabriel Still, Esq., dated 1786, an outer surround of small pearls, in gold. Size O 1/2
Estimate: £300-£400

GEORGE III GOLD & BLACK ENAMEL MOURNING RING

Lot 1271: A GEORGE III GOLD AND BLACK ENAMEL MOURNING RING
The central section containing hair set within a black enamel border inscribed Eliz Seaman OB 22 July 1799 AE 68, in gold. Size K
Estimate: £250-£300

GEORGIAN PASTE SET PENDANT

Lot 1282: A GEORGIAN PASTE SET PENDANT
Mounted with green paste stones in gilt metal, 5cm wide, together with a garnet and gold pendant, 5cm long
Estimate: £100-£150

GEORGE II ENAMEL & GOLD FRIENDSHIP PENDANT

Lot 1283: A GEORGE II ENAMEL AND GOLD FRIENDSHIP PENDANT
The centre section containing hair, within a scrolling border of white enamel, with inscription Gage d’Amitie (pledge of friendship) to one side, inscribed to the other side Merit Claims Love, 3cm long, together with a gold mourning urn pendant and seven other mourning pendants
Estimate: £500-£600

Designer Desire: Andrew Grima

Montage of Andrew Grima jewellery designs

Justin is very lucky that it’s too late to buy me a last-minute Christmas present because something by Andrew Grima would be very much hinted about!

Italian-born Grima (1921-2007) emigrated to the UK at the age of five. He designed high-end jewellery including rings, watches, necklaces and brooches. In 1966, he opened his first boutique at 80 Jermyn Street in London; this was followed by outlets in New York, Sydney, Tokyo and Zurich.

His exclusive pieces have been worn by royalty and Hollywood legends; Queen Elizabeth II (he was granted the Queen’s Royal Warrant), Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and ‘Bond girl’, Ursula Andress were all admirers.

In 1969-70, Grima collaborated with Omega on the About Time watch collection comprising 85 pieces – fifty watches and thirty one matching pieces. In 1976, Pulsar was the second watch company with whom he teamed up to create a range of around 30 timepieces which included the stunning 18 carat gold LED watch (shown above). All his watches are very valuable and hugely sought after today. 

His jewellery designs are always in demand and regularly exceed their auction estimates multifold.

The V&A has one of his brooches in their permanent collection.

Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery was published just a couple of months ago.

Portrait of Andrew Grimacredit

Additional images credits:
Grima Collection | National Jeweler

Designer Desire: Guy Vidal

Montage of Guy Vidal jewellery and metalware designs

Guy Vidal (b. 1938) is a French Canadian multi-disciplinary artist & designer. His current practice is in paper however, it’s his vintage jewellery that we’ll be featuring in this week’s Designer Desire.

When we first saw his work, we thought he would hail from Scandinavia. His mid-century pieces are modernist and brutalist – created using pewter, brass and silver and gold plate – and remind us of makers such as Jacob Hull and Jorma Laine.

Vidal explains the development of his practice.

I started with printmaking (etchings and lithographs) where paper, copper and stone appealed to me as much as the finished product. I then favored metal (copper, pewter, silver and gold) with jewelry and sculpture. My research at this time was aimed at the solid construction of volume and the aesthetics of the finished product. Later, I worked with cold glass, that is to say etched with a sandblastr. Another monochrome material offering many possibilities, given its transparency. Through this crystalline material, I saw my imprint in the finished work. I was evolving, without realizing it, towards my current approach.

He was very prolific during his jewellery making career, so examples often come up for sale on both Etsy and eBay.

Portrait of Guy Vidalcredit

Additional image credits:
Live Auctioneers