An exciting Jewellery & Watches auction takes place at Roseberys in London on Tuesday 13th September 2022, from 11am.
Regular readers will know that I’m a massive jewellery fan – especially antique & vintage jewellery. I love the Art Deco period, Georgian & Victorian mourning jewellery and brutalist Scandinavian pieces. My favourite colour is purple, so amethyst is a favourite stone. The item of jewellery that I most covet is an antique baguette or step-cut, channel set, full eternity diamond ring in white gold or platinum. Many of these can be found in this upcoming sale… now, if only I had a spare few quid sloshing about!
There are some famous jewellery and watch-makers represented at this sale; including Asprey, Cartier, Chaumet, Hermès and Mappin and Webb.
One of the of advantages of researching auction lots is you often learn the meanings of words and terms. Today, I found out that parure is a matching set of jewels and a surete (or more correctly, sûreté) pin is a safety pin. Calibré cut gems, popular in Art Deco jewellery, are often square or rectangular shaped and channel set very close together. A navette cut is a gem in the shape of a boat – unless it’s a diamond, then it’s referred to as marquise cut – shaped to resemble the lips of the Marquise (or Madame) de Pompadour – a lover of King Luis XV. Oh, the blackholes you can fall into while blogging!
If you’re planning on bidding, don’t forget added charges; their buyer’s premium is 25% + VAT (30% inclusive of VAT) which will be added on to the final hammer price of each item. You’ll need to register with Roseberys to bid live online. Alternatively, bidding is available on the Invaluable, Live Auctioneers and Saleroom sites.
Roseberys is unable to pack and ship items in-house, but they recommend a number of delivery companies.
Lot 1: A Georgian, rose-cut diamond comet brooch
Designed as an openwork circle of rose-cut diamonds with engraved scroll surmount and rose-cut diamond terminal. c. 1830, length 2.6cm This brooch is one of many different types produced in the early 19th century to commemorate Halley’s comet. Halley’s Comet is arguably the most famous comet in history. it was first recorded in 1705 by the astronomer Edmund Halley. As a “periodic” comet, it returns to Earth’s vicinity about every 75 years, making it possible for a person to see it twice in their lifetime. It was last here in 1986, and it is projected to return in 2061
Estimate: £200 – £300
Lot 68: A group of six gem-set and diamond eternity rings
Set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds and calibre-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds respectively. (6)
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500
Lot 112: A pair of emerald and diamond ear clips
Each of scroll design centring on a cut-cornered square emerald, within a scroll surround of brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, clip and post fittings. c.1960 Accompanied by a gemmological report from Amsterdam & Sauer.
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
Lot 114: A pair of Art Deco, aquamarine and diamond dress clips
Each of palmette design set with oval-shaped and step-cut aquamarines, framed by single-cut diamonds. c.1930, length 2.5cm
Estimate: £800 – £1,200
Lot 125: A sapphire and diamond Maltese cross brooch
Designed as a central claw-set circular-cut sapphire with brilliant-cut diamond-set openwork arms, stamped 750, width 5.5cm
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
Lot 160: A suite of cultured pearl and diamond jewellery
Comprising: a ring; pendant ; and pair of ear clips, each set with a single grey cultured pearl accented with marquise and square diamonds, ring size J, clip and post fittings.
Estimate: £1,500 – £2,000
Lot 164: Asprey & Co, an amethyst and diamond flower surete pin
By Asprey, composed of four navette-cut amethyst cluster flowerheads each with a brilliant-cut diamond centre, to a navette-cut diamond and diamond cluster keeper, signed Asprey, length, 7.5cm, stamped 18K
Estimate: £300 – £500
Lot 180: A gold, diamond and hematite parure
By Deakin & Francis, comprising a collar, bangle and pair of ear clips, the collar and bangle of gas pipe design, each accented with hematite cabochons and brilliant-cut diamond detail, the ear clips of matching design, British hallmarks for 9-carat gold, steel spring to collar and bangle.
Estimate: £600 – £800
Lot 206: Chaumet, a diamond eternity ring
By Chaumet, set with princess- and brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Chaumet, numbered, ring size L.
Estimate: £800 – £1,200
Lot 247: An amethyst and gem necklace
Composed of large cabochon gems including: amethyst, lemon citrine, citrine and smokey quartz, to chain-link connections, length 43cm
Estimate: £2,500 – £3,000
Lot 268: Cartier, an 18ct gold, diamond band ring
By Cartier, pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Cartier and numbered, 626961, European convention hallmarks, French assay and maker’s marks, ring size M.
Estimate: £3,000 – £5,000
