An afternoon in Spitalfields

Corner of Fournier Street and Brick Lane, London E1 with signage in English and Bengali | H is for Home

We highlighted our visit to Dennis Severs’ House in London in a recent post. Having spent a wonderful hour there, we wandered around the historical Spitalfields and Shoreditch districts for the rest of the afternoon.

Christ Church, Spitalfields designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor | H is for Home

There was no danger of getting lost with the stunning Christ Church to help you keep your bearings. It often loomed into view as we criss-crossed the area.

W & A Jones shopfront in Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

It didn’t really matter if we got lost anyway. We weren’t in any rush and there was so much to see; every street had hidden gems.

Front of 5a Fournier Street, Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

In particular, it was the architectural details that were so interesting to us.

Eleven and a half Fournier Street, Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

The brick & stonework, the paving, the door frames & windows, the shutters, the fanlights, the door knobs & bells, knockers and letter boxes; much of it original Georgian.

Brass knocker in the form of a ladies hand on a door in Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

There’s a mixture of old industrial buildings, pubs, shops and domestic dwellings. It really is fascinating if you just take the time to stroll and soak it all in.

Old, three-storey stone warehouse building front | H is for Home

Another thing that really caught our eye were the ‘ghost signs’, the remnants of former factory and shop premises advertising signs with business names and products for sale.

Donovan Bros. handpainted shopfront at 46 Crispin Street, Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

Some have never really been hidden away, some rediscovered many years after being painted over, boxed in or covered with later signage.

A. Gold French Milliner at 42 Brushfield Street, Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

They’re so atmospheric. That’s something that can be said of the area in general – especially once you get into some of the quieter side streets. There are famously busy areas like Brick Lane – full of shops, restaurants and bars. However, these quiet corners have a special attraction all of their own.

Verde & Co shopfront at 40 Brushfield Street, Spitalfields, London | H is for Home

If you’re a fan of period architecture and detailing, particularly the 18th and 19th century, then set aside a few hours if you’re in this part of London… and take a wander.

Dennis Severs’ House visit

Dennis Severs' House - drawing room

We’ve already written about our recent trip to London and visit to Chelsea Physic Garden. Another day that still burns bright in the memory is our afternoon in Spitalfields and, in particular, the time we spent at Dennis Severs’ House.

Knocker on the front door of Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

Dennis Severs was an artist and he created this world at number 18 Folgate Street. It’s a very special place – and somewhere we’d strongly recommend if you’re planning a trip to London. Perhaps you even live there and have never visited.

Front door of Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

Dennis Severs created the house and it’s quite hard to describe – part theatre, part gallery. He wasn’t keen on the museum tag, although there’s an abundance of wonderful historical objects. It feels alive – as if the people who lived there have just stepped out for a moment… and you’ve been left to wander around their home during their brief absence. Perhaps they’re even in another room or part of the house close by. You’re invited into ‘a game’ – you’ve briefly interrupted a family of Huguenot weavers and you’re piecing things together – who was just here, what were they doing, how do they live.

Californian, Dennis Severs recalled:

Down deep, I always believed that one day I would travel past picture frames and into the marinated glow of a warmer, more mellow and more romantic light. There was one such light in particular, one that I saw in the combination of old varnish and paint, and that appealed to me as my ideal. By the age of 11, it was identified as English.

Smoking room in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

There’s dust and dishes to be washed, half-finished food & drink, unmade beds, clothes hanging to dry, candles flickering and fires burning.

Kitchen table in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

It’s an imagined place, the Huguenot family named Jervis and their lodgers – however, it’s based on historical realities.

With a candle, a chamber pot and a bedroll, I began sleeping in each of the house’s 10 rooms so that I might arouse my intuition in the quest for each room’s soul.

Armchairs in front of the kitchen fire in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

It’s a complex, multi-layered thing. Have a read of the official website for a deeper exploration and explanation of Dennis Severs’ thought process.

Corner of the kitchen in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

You’re asked to wander around the house in silence, no electric light, no phones, no cameras. It’s very much about the atmosphere contained within the house and spaces within. An experience of sight, sound and smell.

Basement in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

Some rooms or spaces are very humble indeed – others a little more opulent. There’s the kitchen, eating parlour, smoking rooms, work rooms, bedrooms and boudoirs. There are fabulous details everywhere you turn – still lives almost.

Table vignette in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

It’s only open twice a week, generally. About 8 visitors are welcomed in at a time. The plus side of this is that the rooms are never crowded with people. The downside is that you have to keep moving through the house steadily – otherwise the next 8 would never get in! You’re not rushed, but we would have loved to just sit in each room for half an hour or so, to soak it all in.

Master bedroom in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

In fact, Justin for one, would happily live there for a few days. Our own home gets more and more like Dennis Severs’ House with each passing month!

Dickens room in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

The average visit lasts about 30-40 minutes and costs £10; it’s well worth it. There are special events to look out for too, especially at Christmastime where you can linger a little longer, sit in the rooms – and even have mulled wine & mince pies. It’s also available to hire as a film and photography location.

Silk weavers' room in Dennis Servers' house | H is for Home

We hope to return very soon. Have a watch of the interview below with Dennis Severs from 1998, a couple of years before his untimely passing.

additional image credit

Chelsea Physic Garden visit

Sir Hans Sloane cart at Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

We’ve just returned from a week in London, where we braved the extreme heat and visited some of the places on our wish list.

John Haynes' 1751 survey of the Apothecaries' Physic Gardencredit

The first of those destinations was Chelsea Physic Garden, created in the mid seventeenth century. It’s the oldest botanic garden in London and is recognised as the second oldest apothecary garden in the UK. It’s also currently hosting the exhibition, ‘The Elixir of Letters’, with inscriptions and sculptures created by some of the UK’s foremost letter carvers.

"Just Tea for Two and Two for Tea" sculpture in Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

The garden is situated close to the river in Chelsea. You’re surrounded by lots of buildings and hustle & bustle… yet on stepping through an unassuming gate on Swan Walk, you enter a place of beauty, calm & tranquillity. It’s almost like entering a secret world.

Cotton fabric samples hung on lines at Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

It was a place of collection, display, education and learning… as it still remains today. It houses about five thousand medicinal, herbal, edible and useful plants.

Lollipop trees in Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

The quadrant layout would have been familiar to visitors hundreds of years ago…

Sir Hans Sloane statue in the Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

…and Sir Hans Sloane still casts an eye out over the grounds!

The fernery at Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

We started our visit with a short guided tour, then had as much time as we wanted to explore ourselves.

Adelle inside a greenhouse in Chelsea Physic Garden containing insectivorous plants | H is for Home

We drifted through the garden, looking at the plants and tree specimens – along paths and through glasshouses. It’s such a lovely place to spend time.

Adelle in Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

Even on a seriously hot day there are lots of cool corners to sit down, rest or have a snack.

Justin sitting on a bench in Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

There’s also a lovely open, airy restaurant café to have drinks or lunch – and a small shop too.

The restaurant at Chelsea Physic Garden | H is for Home

We can thoroughly recommend the garden, both as a place of horticultural interest – and as a refuge from the busy city beyond the walls.

Wig wams and pots of various chilli variety | H is for Home

Our visit lasted about 3 hours. We had another ticket booked across town…otherwise we could have stayed all day!

Get their look: Designer’s mezzanine apartment

Designer's mezzanine apartmentcredit

This modernist mezzanine apartment is the stylish home of Malika Favre who we featured in last week’s Designer Desire post. It’s a penthouse apartment in Five King Edwards Road in Hackney, a converted Art Deco clothing factory.

Often, a mezzanine apartment will have lofty proportions and floor to ceiling glass doors or windows which allow light to flood into the space. This one is fortunate to have the addition of a wide balcony – a precious inner-city outdoor space for plants and patio furniture and a view out over neighbouring rooftops.

  1. Krenit bowls
  2. Venus of Cupertino – iPad / iPad Mini docking stations
  3. The Duel – Just So! safety matches
  4. Ottoman designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance
  5. Bistro folding chairs
  6. Metal folding garden table

Get their look: Designer's mezzanine apartment | H is for Home

Get their look

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Metal folding garden table
Metal folding garden table
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Ottoman designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance
Ottoman designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance
The Duel – Just So! safety matches
The Duel – Just So! safety matches
Krenit bowl, turquoise
Krenit bowl, turquoise
Venus of Cupertino – iPad / iPad Mini docking stations
Venus of Cupertino – iPad / iPad Mini docking stations
Krenit bowl, red
Krenit bowl, red
Metal folding garden table
Metal folding garden table
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Bistro folding chair
Ottoman designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance
Ottoman designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance
The Duel – Just So! safety matches
The Duel – Just So! safety matches
Krenit bowl, turquoise
Krenit bowl, turquoise
Venus of Cupertino – iPad / iPad Mini docking stations
Venus of Cupertino – iPad / iPad Mini docking stations
Krenit bowl, red
Krenit bowl, red