Tag: womens fashion

Auction Alert: Roger Saul: The Personal Mulberry Archive

A PARTNER'S PEDESTAL DESK BY ROGER SAUL

Roger Saul: The Personal Mulberry Archive sale is in just a couple of days, but we wanted to flag it up anyway because there are so many brilliant lots included. We had a hard time shortlisting a dozen from the 276 lots. Mulberry is most famous for their leather goods, so we chose vintage luggage, male and female fashion, furniture and interior accessories.

The auction is happening on Wednesday 7th August 2024, from 10.30am at Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE.

Bid online at the Dreweatts website – their buyer’s premium is charged per lot at 26% of the hammer price (31.2% inc. VAT) up to and including £20,000.

Alternatively, you can bid live via the Invaluable or Saleroom websites. Additional charges apply. Dreweatts don’t ship themselves; however, they have a long list of recommended national & international delivery companies.

This sale is a celebration of Roger’s 42 years at Mulberry, creating, building and evolving the label, making it into one of the most popular brands in the UK and worldwide, renowned for its exquisite leather goods and timeless designs, that combine both traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation.

TWO EARLY 70'S MULBERRY GREEN CANVAS TRAVELLING CASES

Lot 10: TWO EARLY 70S MULBERRY GREEN CANVAS TRAVELLING CASES

Comprising a suitcase and a cricket bag, the rear with slot and retainer for a racket, 35cm high, 73cm long
Estimate: £120 – £180

NINE PAIRS OF TORTOISESHELL GLASSES

Lot 19: NINE PAIRS OF TORTOISESHELL GLASSES

Including:

  • TWO PAIRS OF TORTOISESHELL MULBERRY PRESCRIPTION SUNGLASSES
  • A PAIR OF TORTOISESHELL COLORS IN OPTICS PRESCRIPTION SUNGLASSES, inscribed Sanford Hutton on the left temple
  • TWO PAIRS OF TORTOISHELL FRAMED PRESCRIPTION GLASSES, with a brass nose bridge, brass temples and clear enamel temple tips
  • 
A PAIR OF TORTOISESHELL MULBERRY PRESCRIPTION SUNGLASSES, with an engraved brass nose bridge
  • A PAIR OF TORTOISESHELL MULBERRY PRESCRIPTION GLASSES, with green tinted side shields
  • A PAIR OF TORTOISESHELL MULBERRY SUNGLASSES, with green tinted side shields
and
  • A PAIR OF UNMARKED SUNGLASSES WITH SIDE SHIELDS
  • TOGETHER WITH A SCOTCHGRAIN LEATHER GLASSES POUCH, with leather trim, yellow contrast stitching and the Mulberry logo embossed on leather and
  • A BROWN COTTON DRAWSTRING MULBERRY GLASSES POUCH with printed Mulberry logo, slightly rubbed off

Estimate: £100 – £200
A LADIES MULBERRY OUTFIT

Lot 34: A LADIES MULBERRY OUTFIT

Including:

  1. THE VERY FIRST MULBERRY TOAST AND BEIGE WOVEN LEATHER HANDLE BAG, DESIGNED BY ROGER SAUL 1976, with zip top, approximately 46 x20cm, one of a limited run
  2. A MULBERRY CREAM SILK SUMMER REVER COLLAR DRESS, with a matching silk belt with Nile crocodile buckle, front patch pockets and side pockets, size L
  3. AND A PAIR OF ICONIC MULBERRY WOVEN LEATHER HEELED COURT SHOES, with leather trim and Mulberry logo on the heel, these shoes were released in the 90s but were inspired by the 70s, made in Italy, size 40.5

Estimate: £300 – £500
A MULBERRY MEN'S OUTFIT FROM THE 90S

Lot 64: A MULBERRY MEN’S OUTFIT FROM THE 90S

Consisting:

  • A MULBERRY TWO PIECE SUIT
In biscuit Rupert Bear check, 100% virgin wool, made in Italy
Jacket measures: chest 55cm, shoulder 49cm, shoulder to hem 82cm, sleeve length 64cm (inseam 42cm)
. Trousers measure: waist 41cm, overall leg length 102cm (inseam 71cm)
  • A MULBERRY SOFT LEATHER HUNTING JACKET IN CHOCOLATE BROWN
ONE OFF SAMPLE CREATED FOR ROGER SAUL
With Mulberry stamped snap fasteners and lined in Mulberry check fabric, size M
  • 
A MULBERRY BROWN SUEDE WAISTCOAT
With five mulberry logo buttons, size M
  • MULBERRY ‘ITSHIDE’ LEATHER SEDGMORE BROGUES, size 8
A
  • MULBERRY PAISLEY DESIGNED CRAVAT, 100% SILK
  • AND A MULBERRY LEATHER MOCK CROCODILE BELT, SIZE 34/85, 100cm long

Estimate: £400 – £600

A MULBERRY TRAVELLING STEAMER TRUNK

Lot 93: A MULBERRY TRAVELLING STEAMER TRUNK

IN MOLE SCOTCHGRAIN AND TAN SADDLE LEATHER, with drawers and hangers. This is a ‘ONE OFF SAMPLE’

Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000

A MULBERRY CREAM CANVAS SUIT CARRIER AND TRAVEL BAG

Lot 113: A MULBERRY CREAM CANVAS SUIT CARRIER AND TRAVEL BAG

With chunky zips and leather detailing, as well as blue and yellow Mulberry monogrammed canvas handles
from the sporting pursuits collection and both complete with the ’25’ label in celebration of Mulberry’s 25th anniversary, 1996
.

The suit carrier is approximately 102cm high when open, 55cm wide and 10cm deep
The travel bag is approximately 39cm high, 55cm wide and 20cm deep

Estimate: £150 – £250

A SET OF THREE MULBERRY WOVEN WITHY BASKETS

Lot 159: A SET OF THREE MULBERRY WOVEN WITHY BASKETS

Including:

  • A PICNIC TWIN LIDDED BASKET, with Mulberry check lining and leather buckle straps, 48cm high
  • A MULBERRY WICKER FISHING BASKET OR CREEL, with webbing strap, a leather closure with brass buckle, and an aperture to the lid, 28cm high, 37cm wide 
and
  • A SIMPLE HANDLED CIRCULAR BASKET, 39cm high

Estimate: £150 – £250

A MULBERRY AT HOME BEECH AND LEATHER FOLDING CHAIR

Lot 158: A MULBERRY AT HOME BEECH AND LEATHER FOLDING CHAIR
LATE 20TH CENTURY, BY MULBERRY

92cm high

Estimate: £100 – £150

A PARTNER'S PEDESTAL DESK BY ROGER SAUL

Lot 217: A PARTNER’S PEDESTAL DESK BY ROGER SAUL
LATE 20TH CENTURY

Each pedestal clad in saddle leather and mole scotchgrain, and modelled as a packing case, the top is made of mahogany
.

73cm high, 137cm wide, 60cm deep .

This is a unique piece that was created for the bedrooms of Roger’s Michelin starred Charlton House Hotel.

Estimate: £300 – £500

TWO SIMILAR LARGE WICKER MULBERRY HOME 'BALLOON' LOG BASKETS DESIGNED BY ROGER SAUL

Lot 234: TWO SIMILAR LARGE WICKER MULBERRY HOME ‘BALLOON’ LOG BASKETS DESIGNED BY ROGER SAUL
LATE 20TH CENTURY

With leather rim above handles and wicker rectangular bodies
The larger 70cm high, 73cm wide, 48cm deep 
The smaller 60cm high, 66cm wide, 46cm deep
Similar baskets can be seen in Roger Saul’s hallway at his old residence Sharpham Park, in his book Mulberry at Home, page 68. 
The photo included highlights the versatility of the basket, and displays how it is equally as useful for storing porting gear as it is for storing logs.

TOGETHER WITH SAUL, ROGER, MULBERRY AT HOME, HARD COVER, 1999, EBURY PRESS, LONDON

Estimate: £300 – £500 (already with a bid of £650)

A SET OF THREE MULBERRY RED PAINTED WASTE PAPER BASKETS

Lot 249: A SET OF THREE MULBERRY RED PAINTED WASTE PAPER BASKETS



LATE 20TH CENTURY. Of cylindrical form
31cm high
TOGETHER WITH ANOTHER SIMILAR BLUE EXAMPLE, of oval section, 33cm high 
(4).

The waste paper baskets were made to go into the bedrooms at The Charlton House Hotel (the Mulberry Home hotel).

Estimate: £100 – £150

A GROUP OF THREE MULBERRY BOTTLETOP FOUNDATION LEATHER LINED HANDBAGS

Lot 264: A GROUP OF THREE MULBERRY BOTTLETOP FOUNDATION LEATHER LINED HANDBAGS

CIRCA 2002
Comprising:

  • A CARLING BLACK LABEL BOTTLETOP HANDBAG, with brown leather lining and red handles, measuring approximately 13cm high, 21cm wide, 13cm deep
  • A TUSKER BOTTLETOP HANDBAG, with pink leather lining, measuring approximately 13cm high, 20.5cm wide, 12cm deep,
  • A CARLING BLACK LABEL BOTTLETOP HANDBAG WITH LID, with red leather lining, measuring approximately 15cm high, 23cm wide, 13cm deep
  • TOGETHER WITH A FANTA BOTTLETOP RADIO, measuring approximately 20cm high including handle, 22cm wide, 11.5cm deep

Estimate: £100 – £200

Designer Desire: Malcolm Starr

Montage of Malcolm Starr fashion items

Malcolm Starr was born to be a somebody in fashion. His mother, Claire was a costume designer. His father, Frank Starr, was a well-known figure in the New York textile industry who, in the 1940s, founded the Malcolm Starr clothing company located at 530 Seventh Avenue in Manhattan’s garment district. When Starr senior died in 1969, Malcolm took over the business.

Some of the designer names associated with the Starr label include Bill Tice, Youssef Rizkallah, Elinor (Rizkallah) Simmons, Gino Charles and Carol Horn.

Elinor Simmons was a designer at the company from the early 1960s up to 1972. Youssef Rizkallah joined Starr in 1969, working there until 1975. Carol Horn was at the label during the early years of the 70s.

Those aren’t the only branches in the Starr fashion family tree. In 1966, Starr partnered with Teal Traina to form Gino Charles (a combination of the two men’s middle names). This line was designed by Alan Phillips.

There’s an iconic photograph of the model, Veruschka in 1965 wearing an eye-catching lime green Malcolm Starr maxi dress.

The fashion house continued to operate until 1976 when Starr sold it for a reported 7 million dollars.

In March 2008, Starr passed away following a fall at his Connecticut home; he was 84.

Vintage Malcolm Starr pieces are readily available online and at auction, especially in the USA. Try 1stDibs, eBay and Etsy.

Image credits:
1stDibs | Live Auctioneers

Auction alert: Passion for Fashion, June 2022

A Thierry Mugler 'rainbow' wool-blend dress, 'Été Hawaii' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

This is the second time in recent months that we’re highlighting one of Kerry Taylor Auctions’ Passion for Fashion auction sales. The items that they’ll be selling are of such interest and quality, it deserves another visit.

There are lots that once belonged to Queen Victoria, the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild; the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau and Trinidadian actress, Nina Baden-Semper. Haute couture designers represented include Gucci, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli and Hermès. There isn’t just jewellery and clothing either – there’s a dog bed, shoe trunk, bundles of vintage fashion magazines and original illustrations of Diana, Princess of Wales outfits.

  • Lot: 1 to 230: Tue, 21st Jun 2022, 10am
  • Lot: 231 to 440: Tue, 21st Jun 2022, 2pm

There are 442 lots coming up in this sale. As usual, there’s a buyer’s premium of 25% (ex. VAT). If you bid live via the Invaluable website, the buyer’s premium is as follows:

  • up to £49,999: 28%
  • £50,000+: 23%

A Schiaparelli parure of faceted green glass stones, late 1950s-early 1960s

Lot 48: A Schiaparelli parure of faceted green glass stones, late 1950s-early 1960s
Signed, comprising necklace with droplets, approx 12-15.5in, 31-39cm long; cuff bracelet, 18cm, 7in long; and pair of clip-on earrings, 3cm, 1.2in diameter (4)
Estimate: £300 – £500

Gucci gold leather trainers

Lot 100: A pair of Gucci gold leather trainers with rainbow foam platform soles, Resort 2017 collection
Stamped, size 38.5, signature Gucci striped ribbon to uppers, 11.5cm, 4.5in platform soles, 25cm, 10in long; with a Gucci box (3)
Estimate: £200 – £300

A Balenciaga violet ponyskin and leather City bag, circa 2006

Lot 108: A Balenciaga violet ponyskin and leather City bag, circa 2006
Stamped, with zip pocket to exterior and another to interior, 46cm, 18in long
Estimate: £200 – £300

A Louis Vuitton shoe trunk

Lot 115: A Louis Vuitton shoe trunk
Signed with blank number label, of monogrammed canvas and leather, the brushed-cotton lined interior with twelve compartments
Estimate: £800 – £1,00

An Hermès suede and leather belt-bag, 2000

Lot 131: An Hermès suede and leather belt-bag, 2000
Stamped and signed, blindstamp D, waist approx 63x83cm, 24.5×32.5in; together with a Marc Zanardelli leather triangular ‘Musi’ backpack with three pockets to interior, modern, stamped, approx 53cm, 21in (2)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £200 – £300

An Hermès canvas cushioned dog bed, modern

Lot 132: An Hermès canvas cushioned dog bed, modern
Labelled, in signature shades of orange and brown, handle to each side, interior cushion with a removable cover, approx 32in long; together with two Hermès canvas storage cubes (4)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £300 – £500

A Tom Ford patchwork denim skirt, Autumn-Winter 2015

Lot 173: A Tom Ford patchwork denim skirt, Autumn-Winter 2015
Labelled, size 40, full-length, with jewel-toned velvet and satin insertions, waist 76cm, 30in; together with a patchwork Mongolian-sheepskin gilet, modern, unlabelled; Emporio Armani Ikat-grosgrain trousers, labelled, waist 71cm, 28in; Emporio Armani black velvet jacket/shirt, c. 2015, labelled, size 40, bust approx 86cm, 34in; and a Philip Treacy brown plush-felt hat with pheasant feather band, modern, labelled, circumference approx 53cm, 21in (5)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £250 – £400

A Thierry Mugler 'rainbow' wool-blend dress, 'Été Hawaii' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

Lot 191: A Thierry Mugler ‘rainbow’ wool-blend dress, ‘Été Hawaii’ collection, Spring-Summer 1990
Labelled, size 36, with curving neck and hemline and sheer mesh insertion, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 66cm, 26in
The collection of the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau. Sale proceeds will be donated to Team Domenica, a charity for young adults with learning disabilities.
Estimate: £1,500 – £2,500

A changeant green/purple silk-chiffon evening gown, 1990s

Lot 197: A changeant green/purple silk-chiffon evening gown, 1990s
Unlabelled, the empire-line bodice pleated and gathered vertically, lightly boned and lined in satin, matching stole/sash, bust 86cm, 34in; together with a second example in printed silk, 2000s, unlabelled, customised with Lawrence Vrba flower brooch to hip, signed, busts approx 86cm, 34in (3)
The collection of the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau. Sale proceeds will be donated to Team Domenica, a charity for young adults with learning disabilities.
Estimate: £300 – £500

Queen Victoria's stockings and shoes

Lot 214: Queen Victoria’s stockings and shoes, late 19th century
The stockings of black silk with ecru toes and tops, one stocking woven with VR 21 below imperial crowns, the other stocking woven with VR 10 below imperial crowns, embroidered black silk clocks; the black grosgrain silk shoes by Gundry & Sons, with original trade label to the insole ‘Gundry & Sons, Makers to the Queen, the Princess of Wales and Royal Family, 174 New Bond St, London’, flats with low heels, rounded toes, adorned with jet-beaded bows, 24.5cm, 9 3/4in (4)
Queen Victoria’s shoes were made by Richard Gundry from 1824 onwards. Gundry remained the Queen’s supplier and held the royal warrant as Boot and Shoemakers to the Queen until as late as 1898, although Gundry (‘Messrs. Gundry’) were only based at their premises of 1 Soho Square from 1831-1883.
Gundry probably made the shoes which the Queen wore at her coronation in 1838; the paper labels stuck inside the soles of Gundry shoes proudly read – beneath an engraving of the royal coat of arms: ‘Gundry & Son, Boot & Shoe Makers TO THE QUEEN, the Queen Dowager [Queen Adelaide], Their Royal Highnesses The Duchess of Kent & Princess Sophia, Soho Square, London’.
These black silk shoes are typical of those worn by the monarch towards the end of her life and bear the New Bond St address.
Estimate: £600 – £900

A Pierre Cardin choker necklace, 1969

Lot 304: A Pierre Cardin choker necklace, 1969
signed to the inside collar ‘Pierre Cardin, Made in France’, the choker with platelet chain and circular medallion enclosing layered rectangles, 34cm, 13in long
British Vogue photographed a necklace with similar choker collar, September, 1969.
Estimate: £800 – £1,200

A Westwood/McLaren 'Destroy' T-shirt, circa 1976

Lot 334: A Westwood/McLaren ‘Destroy’ T-shirt, circa 1976
Black Seditionaries label to left shoulder, of white cotton with screen-printed swastika roundel with inverted crucifix and a verse from the Sex Pistols’ ‘Anarchy in the U.K.’: ‘I am an Antichrist, I am an Anarchist, I don’t know what I want, But I know how to get it, I wanna destroy the passer by, I wanna be anarchy’; ‘Destroy’ in pink and black to the top, the fabric intentionally slashed from armhole to hem down both sides and with added holes front and back, chest 81cm, 32in; together with a model agency photograph of Martin Crowley (2)
Martin Crowley, drummer, guitarist and vocalist, born 1965 and died aged 49 in 2014. The proceeds of this lot will be donated to the charity Rock and Roll Rescue. Crowley performed in various groups including The Bevis Frond formed in Walthamstow (1986), The President’s Men, Underworlde (1991) with Dave Austin and Paul Barton, Raw Satellite (1994) with Dave Austin and Graham Childs. He also worked for a time during the 1980s as a roadie for the Clash.
Estimate: £600 – £900

What to do when buying clothing online

What to do when buying clothing online

A 2020 Statista survey indicated that 60% of women purchased clothing from online stores. Indeed, there’s a freedom that comes with internet purchases. There’s no waiting in line or tapping your fingers at the till while the cashier calculates your items and bags them. You’re usually spared the agony of trying several items on, hoping that a few will be the right size for you. However, online shopping for clothes can be fraught with issues, which is why you need to know a few things before using these platforms. Here are some of them.

Select reliable shops

According to cybercrew.uk, clothing is the most common item bought online by the UK public. In other words, people find it more convenient to shop for apparel on online platforms than visit physical stores. Due to the interest in these shopping platforms, statistics indicate that between 2018 and 2020, over six thousand online clothing shops had commenced active business. Admittedly, this makes it difficult to choose from the vast selection. Moreover, with such fierce competition, people with purchasing power may be spoilt for choice.

Unfortunately, in such environments, scammers find fertile ground in which to operate. Aside from that, some online shops may see it as an opportunity to sell substandard clothing. Indeed, there are several issues about which you may want to be wary. This is why it pays to select a reliable shop like the Japanese store or others with whom to transact business. One way to find a reliable online shop that sells quality clothing is to research social media. The internet holds a wealth of information, and you’d be thankful to use it to make your final choice(s).

Check the size charts

Because you won’t be trying the clothes on physically before purchasing, it’s recommended to check the size charts first. Usually, online buyers are lured by the attractiveness of these clothes and fail to pay attention to the size charts. In the UK, size charts tend to be different from the ones in the US and other countries. Because of this, it’s important to first know your size and compare it to the item(s) of clothing you intend to purchase online.

To get it right the first time, it’s necessary to measure your bust, waist, hips and torso. If your values fall within a range, you can then compare them to the standard UK size chart. The trick with self-measurements is to avoid tying the tape too tightly around your body. Doing that could give you the wrong size. Moreover, different clothing brands have slight variations in their size charts. However, the values may not be too much to alter your correct size.

Research clothing materials

Have you ever felt drawn to an online clothing item only to be disappointed when it’s finally delivered? Some clothes may look like the best item you ever saw, but the material could be wrong or uncomfortable on your skin. This is one of the reasons you should look into on materials from which these clothes are made. For instance, while some people’s skin reacts to wool, others are irritated by latex. Again, due to technological advancement, some manufacturers make use of experimental fabrics. Indeed, an item of6ty clothing may not be 100% experimental fabric. However, a mixture with regular fabric like polyester could be problematic.

Therefore, to avoid any discomfort, disappointment or inconvenience, it helps to read about the fabric to learn the pros and cons. Moreover, if you’re into being environmentally aware, you may be more interested in sustainable fabrics than those that ‘hurt’ the planet.

Read about their return policy

One of the most disappointing moments is to buy a clothing item from an online store only to realise that it’s unreturnable. In other words, you spent good money on something you’ll never wear. However, you can avoid this if you ensure you read the online store’s return policy. Some businesses may have a seven-day return policy, while others allow just three days.

As long as you fall within that range, you can take advantage of the return policy. Even with that, it may come with conditions. For example, the item has to be returned with all its labels and packaging intact. With certain policies, what you get is a replacement rather than a money-back guarantee. If you’re comfortable with the online store’s return policy, you can proceed to transact business with them.

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