Auction alert: Jewellery & Watches

A sapphire and diamond Maltese cross brooch

An exciting Jewellery & Watches auction takes place at Roseberys in London on Tuesday 13th September 2022, from 11am.

Regular readers will know that I’m a massive jewellery fan – especially antique & vintage jewellery. I love the Art Deco period, Georgian & Victorian mourning jewellery and brutalist Scandinavian pieces. My favourite colour is purple, so amethyst is a favourite stone. The item of jewellery that I most covet is an antique baguette or step-cut, channel set, full eternity diamond ring in white gold or platinum. Many of these can be found in this upcoming sale… now, if only I had a spare few quid sloshing about!

There are some famous jewellery and watch-makers represented at this sale; including Asprey, Cartier, Chaumet, Hermès and Mappin and Webb.

One of the of advantages of researching auction lots is you often learn the meanings of words and terms. Today, I found out that parure is a matching set of jewels and a surete (or more correctly, sûreté) pin is a safety pin. Calibré cut gems, popular in Art Deco jewellery, are often square or rectangular shaped and channel set very close together. A navette cut is a gem in the shape of a boat – unless it’s a diamond, then it’s referred to as marquise cut – shaped to resemble the lips of the Marquise (or Madame) de Pompadour – a lover of King Luis XV. Oh, the blackholes you can fall into while blogging!

If you’re planning on bidding, don’t forget added charges; their buyer’s premium is 25% + VAT (30% inclusive of VAT) which will be added on to the final hammer price of each item. You’ll need to register with Roseberys to bid live online. Alternatively, bidding is available on the Invaluable, Live Auctioneers and Saleroom sites.

Roseberys is unable to pack and ship items in-house, but they recommend a number of delivery companies.

A Georgian, rose-cut diamond comet brooch

Lot 1: A Georgian, rose-cut diamond comet brooch
Designed as an openwork circle of rose-cut diamonds with engraved scroll surmount and rose-cut diamond terminal. c. 1830, length 2.6cm This brooch is one of many different types produced in the early 19th century to commemorate Halley’s comet. Halley’s Comet is arguably the most famous comet in history. it was first recorded in 1705 by the astronomer Edmund Halley. As a “periodic” comet, it returns to Earth’s vicinity about every 75 years, making it possible for a person to see it twice in their lifetime. It was last here in 1986, and it is projected to return in 2061
Estimate: £200 – £300

A group of six gem-set and diamond eternity rings

Lot 68: A group of six gem-set and diamond eternity rings
Set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds and calibre-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds respectively. (6)
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500

A pair of emerald and diamond ear clips

Lot 112: A pair of emerald and diamond ear clips
Each of scroll design centring on a cut-cornered square emerald, within a scroll surround of brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, clip and post fittings. c.1960 Accompanied by a gemmological report from Amsterdam & Sauer.
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000

A pair of Art Deco, aquamarine and diamond dress clips

Lot 114: A pair of Art Deco, aquamarine and diamond dress clips
Each of palmette design set with oval-shaped and step-cut aquamarines, framed by single-cut diamonds. c.1930, length 2.5cm
Estimate: £800 – £1,200

A sapphire and diamond Maltese cross brooch

Lot 125: A sapphire and diamond Maltese cross brooch
Designed as a central claw-set circular-cut sapphire with brilliant-cut diamond-set openwork arms, stamped 750, width 5.5cm
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000

A suite of cultured pearl and diamond jewellery

Lot 160: A suite of cultured pearl and diamond jewellery
Comprising: a ring; pendant ; and pair of ear clips, each set with a single grey cultured pearl accented with marquise and square diamonds, ring size J, clip and post fittings.
Estimate: £1,500 – £2,000

Asprey & Co, an amethyst and diamond flower surete pin

Lot 164: Asprey & Co, an amethyst and diamond flower surete pin
By Asprey, composed of four navette-cut amethyst cluster flowerheads each with a brilliant-cut diamond centre, to a navette-cut diamond and diamond cluster keeper, signed Asprey, length, 7.5cm, stamped 18K
Estimate: £300 – £500

A gold, diamond and hematite parure

Lot 180: A gold, diamond and hematite parure
By Deakin & Francis, comprising a collar, bangle and pair of ear clips, the collar and bangle of gas pipe design, each accented with hematite cabochons and brilliant-cut diamond detail, the ear clips of matching design, British hallmarks for 9-carat gold, steel spring to collar and bangle.
Estimate: £600 – £800

Chaumet, a diamond eternity ring

Lot 206: Chaumet, a diamond eternity ring
By Chaumet, set with princess- and brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Chaumet, numbered, ring size L.
Estimate: £800 – £1,200

An amethyst and gem necklace

Lot 247: An amethyst and gem necklace
Composed of large cabochon gems including: amethyst, lemon citrine, citrine and smokey quartz, to chain-link connections, length 43cm
Estimate: £2,500 – £3,000

Cartier, an 18ct gold, diamond band ring

Lot 268: Cartier, an 18ct gold, diamond band ring
By Cartier, pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Cartier and numbered, 626961, European convention hallmarks, French assay and maker’s marks, ring size M.
Estimate: £3,000 – £5,000

Auction alert: Passion for Fashion, June 2022

A Thierry Mugler 'rainbow' wool-blend dress, 'Été Hawaii' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

This is the second time in recent months that we’re highlighting one of Kerry Taylor Auctions’ Passion for Fashion auction sales. The items that they’ll be selling are of such interest and quality, it deserves another visit.

There are lots that once belonged to Queen Victoria, the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild; the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau and Trinidadian actress, Nina Baden-Semper. Haute couture designers represented include Gucci, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli and Hermès. There isn’t just jewellery and clothing either – there’s a dog bed, shoe trunk, bundles of vintage fashion magazines and original illustrations of Diana, Princess of Wales outfits.

  • Lot: 1 to 230: Tue, 21st Jun 2022, 10am
  • Lot: 231 to 440: Tue, 21st Jun 2022, 2pm

There are 442 lots coming up in this sale. As usual, there’s a buyer’s premium of 25% (ex. VAT). If you bid live via the Invaluable website, the buyer’s premium is as follows:

  • up to £49,999: 28%
  • £50,000+: 23%

A Schiaparelli parure of faceted green glass stones, late 1950s-early 1960s

Lot 48: A Schiaparelli parure of faceted green glass stones, late 1950s-early 1960s
Signed, comprising necklace with droplets, approx 12-15.5in, 31-39cm long; cuff bracelet, 18cm, 7in long; and pair of clip-on earrings, 3cm, 1.2in diameter (4)
Estimate: £300 – £500

Gucci gold leather trainers

Lot 100: A pair of Gucci gold leather trainers with rainbow foam platform soles, Resort 2017 collection
Stamped, size 38.5, signature Gucci striped ribbon to uppers, 11.5cm, 4.5in platform soles, 25cm, 10in long; with a Gucci box (3)
Estimate: £200 – £300

A Balenciaga violet ponyskin and leather City bag, circa 2006

Lot 108: A Balenciaga violet ponyskin and leather City bag, circa 2006
Stamped, with zip pocket to exterior and another to interior, 46cm, 18in long
Estimate: £200 – £300

A Louis Vuitton shoe trunk

Lot 115: A Louis Vuitton shoe trunk
Signed with blank number label, of monogrammed canvas and leather, the brushed-cotton lined interior with twelve compartments
Estimate: £800 – £1,00

An Hermès suede and leather belt-bag, 2000

Lot 131: An Hermès suede and leather belt-bag, 2000
Stamped and signed, blindstamp D, waist approx 63x83cm, 24.5×32.5in; together with a Marc Zanardelli leather triangular ‘Musi’ backpack with three pockets to interior, modern, stamped, approx 53cm, 21in (2)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £200 – £300

An Hermès canvas cushioned dog bed, modern

Lot 132: An Hermès canvas cushioned dog bed, modern
Labelled, in signature shades of orange and brown, handle to each side, interior cushion with a removable cover, approx 32in long; together with two Hermès canvas storage cubes (4)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £300 – £500

A Tom Ford patchwork denim skirt, Autumn-Winter 2015

Lot 173: A Tom Ford patchwork denim skirt, Autumn-Winter 2015
Labelled, size 40, full-length, with jewel-toned velvet and satin insertions, waist 76cm, 30in; together with a patchwork Mongolian-sheepskin gilet, modern, unlabelled; Emporio Armani Ikat-grosgrain trousers, labelled, waist 71cm, 28in; Emporio Armani black velvet jacket/shirt, c. 2015, labelled, size 40, bust approx 86cm, 34in; and a Philip Treacy brown plush-felt hat with pheasant feather band, modern, labelled, circumference approx 53cm, 21in (5)
The collection of the late Victoria, Lady de Rothschild
Estimate: £250 – £400

A Thierry Mugler 'rainbow' wool-blend dress, 'Été Hawaii' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

Lot 191: A Thierry Mugler ‘rainbow’ wool-blend dress, ‘Été Hawaii’ collection, Spring-Summer 1990
Labelled, size 36, with curving neck and hemline and sheer mesh insertion, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 66cm, 26in
The collection of the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau. Sale proceeds will be donated to Team Domenica, a charity for young adults with learning disabilities.
Estimate: £1,500 – £2,500

A changeant green/purple silk-chiffon evening gown, 1990s

Lot 197: A changeant green/purple silk-chiffon evening gown, 1990s
Unlabelled, the empire-line bodice pleated and gathered vertically, lightly boned and lined in satin, matching stole/sash, bust 86cm, 34in; together with a second example in printed silk, 2000s, unlabelled, customised with Lawrence Vrba flower brooch to hip, signed, busts approx 86cm, 34in (3)
The collection of the late Countess Maya von Schönburg-Glauchau. Sale proceeds will be donated to Team Domenica, a charity for young adults with learning disabilities.
Estimate: £300 – £500

Queen Victoria's stockings and shoes

Lot 214: Queen Victoria’s stockings and shoes, late 19th century
The stockings of black silk with ecru toes and tops, one stocking woven with VR 21 below imperial crowns, the other stocking woven with VR 10 below imperial crowns, embroidered black silk clocks; the black grosgrain silk shoes by Gundry & Sons, with original trade label to the insole ‘Gundry & Sons, Makers to the Queen, the Princess of Wales and Royal Family, 174 New Bond St, London’, flats with low heels, rounded toes, adorned with jet-beaded bows, 24.5cm, 9 3/4in (4)
Queen Victoria’s shoes were made by Richard Gundry from 1824 onwards. Gundry remained the Queen’s supplier and held the royal warrant as Boot and Shoemakers to the Queen until as late as 1898, although Gundry (‘Messrs. Gundry’) were only based at their premises of 1 Soho Square from 1831-1883.
Gundry probably made the shoes which the Queen wore at her coronation in 1838; the paper labels stuck inside the soles of Gundry shoes proudly read – beneath an engraving of the royal coat of arms: ‘Gundry & Son, Boot & Shoe Makers TO THE QUEEN, the Queen Dowager [Queen Adelaide], Their Royal Highnesses The Duchess of Kent & Princess Sophia, Soho Square, London’.
These black silk shoes are typical of those worn by the monarch towards the end of her life and bear the New Bond St address.
Estimate: £600 – £900

A Pierre Cardin choker necklace, 1969

Lot 304: A Pierre Cardin choker necklace, 1969
signed to the inside collar ‘Pierre Cardin, Made in France’, the choker with platelet chain and circular medallion enclosing layered rectangles, 34cm, 13in long
British Vogue photographed a necklace with similar choker collar, September, 1969.
Estimate: £800 – £1,200

A Westwood/McLaren 'Destroy' T-shirt, circa 1976

Lot 334: A Westwood/McLaren ‘Destroy’ T-shirt, circa 1976
Black Seditionaries label to left shoulder, of white cotton with screen-printed swastika roundel with inverted crucifix and a verse from the Sex Pistols’ ‘Anarchy in the U.K.’: ‘I am an Antichrist, I am an Anarchist, I don’t know what I want, But I know how to get it, I wanna destroy the passer by, I wanna be anarchy’; ‘Destroy’ in pink and black to the top, the fabric intentionally slashed from armhole to hem down both sides and with added holes front and back, chest 81cm, 32in; together with a model agency photograph of Martin Crowley (2)
Martin Crowley, drummer, guitarist and vocalist, born 1965 and died aged 49 in 2014. The proceeds of this lot will be donated to the charity Rock and Roll Rescue. Crowley performed in various groups including The Bevis Frond formed in Walthamstow (1986), The President’s Men, Underworlde (1991) with Dave Austin and Paul Barton, Raw Satellite (1994) with Dave Austin and Graham Childs. He also worked for a time during the 1980s as a roadie for the Clash.
Estimate: £600 – £900

Tuesday Huesday: Lotta Nieminen

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Lotta Nieminen shop window display design for Hermès | H is for Home

Finland-born, New York-based graphic designer & art director Lotta Nieminen is a new discovery of ours. This is an illustration she did last year for window displays for luxury fashion brand Hermès. She’s also designed some fantastic packaging for coffee company Paulig.

She has a folk art inspired style that reminds us of Sanna Annukka, another Finnish-heritage designer we’ve featured in the past.